剛到奧地利的時候，對他們的百貨公司感到很不習慣，因為很像走道大賣場一樣，雖然沒有到衣服ㄧ堆堆，但是品牌跟品牌之間的界限並沒有很清楚。反而比較像是ㄧ區區的，比如說這邊是賣上衣，就各式品牌的上衣擺在那邊，那區是賣牛仔褲，然後就是ㄧ脫拉庫的牛仔褲。當然，還是有品牌區，尤其是一些大牌!! 還是會有自己的ㄧ區，只不過沒有像台灣的百貨公司分得那麼明顯。
但是，多少讓我想到倫敦的百貨公司。倫敦最有名的三家百貨就是: Liberty, Harrods 還有 Harvey Nicolas。Harrods的部份實在不用多著墨，就是超大的精品百貨，你想得到的精品裡面都有。當然不能忘記他們也很厲害的推出自己紀念品產線，讓去的觀光客就算買不起裡面的名牌，也可以花個15英鎊擁有一個印著Harrods的環保小提袋(其實還是異常昂貴阿!!)。
我最喜歡的百貨是Liberty，這是ㄧ間我經過心情就會很好，可以在裡面消磨一下午的百貨公司。Liberty基本上的營運模式就跟我之前所提到奧地利百貨很像。他們其實比較站在一個把關者的角色。百貨公司內部的"採購"跟"Merchandiser"擁有很大的權利。進來的每件商品都需要經過我們的審視，甚至包括在櫃點的陳列上面也是一樣。也因此，Liberty最讓時尚界津津樂道的就是他們的Visual Merchandising。並不如同台灣的百貨公司只是做櫥窗的陳列，其實包括內部的陳設，Liberty也花盡心思。因此，在古色古香Liberty裡乘坐古老的電梯上下穿梭逛街，少了如織遊客，多了一份悠閒氣息。是我在倫敦的時候最享受的。在看衣服的時候，也可以感受到他們的用心，因為並不會因未品牌的因素，所以在某ㄧ區你只能看到某些品牌，在旁邊的各式陳列，都好像在挖箱寶一樣的充滿驚喜的快樂。而有別於Harrods衝著觀光客開發紀念品路線，Liberty其實有自己的自有品牌: Liberty of London。某種程度上還滿像他自己的Collection。商品的內容從傢俱到時尚精品，一樣不缺，品質與設計也是没話說。
下面是Liberty的ㄧ些精選。第一件衣服我好喜歡!! 後面的多是Liberty of London。
下面的花朵系列，是 Target and Liberty of London。今年春裝新的collection喔!!
有別於歷史悠久的Harrods還有Liberty。Harvey Nicolas充滿年輕風格的都會百貨形象就好比當初的衣蝶。不同的地方在於，Harvey Nicolas將消費層級更往上拉!! 選品的部份則屬於年輕的潮流傾向。丟掉沈重的百年百貨設計，多變充滿故事性的櫥窗風格，自由不羈的態度，讓都會新貴更喜歡去Harvey Nicolas選購。尤其，針對男性品牌，Harvey Nicolas的選品真的厲害！！倫敦潮男敗家勝地。
(在倫敦的店)
(今春的網頁視覺，也可以去下載螢幕保護程式)
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(一張讓我感觸很多的海報。裡面的西裝外套是 Alexander McQueen的設計。難過!!海報的設計風格，文案的書寫，讓我想到已經收起來的中興百貨，曾經是我最愛的百貨公司。)
無獨有偶，Harvey Nicolas讓我想到到從紐約紅到東京的Open Ceremony。不再強調有多少名品在理面，反而針對風格來作主導。換句話說，也不用擔心你買到品質不好的商品，來我們這邊，隨便買都是好貨!! 想要潮，就來Open Ceremony，我們給你的並不只是商品，是一種態度，一種時尚的姿態。
(紐約店)
(東京店)
(洛杉磯店)
(Online Shop的目錄呈現方式)
後來，在一個因緣際會巧合之下，我遇見了奧地利第二大百貨公司Kastner & Öhler 的執行長，我人小鬼大毛遂自薦走過去跟他說我對於他的百貨有很新鮮的想法跟看法。因此要到了他的電子郵件。也洋洋灑灑的寫了封e-mail跟他分析我對百貨零售業的看法。放在下面給有興趣的人看看嚕！！
先說明一下背景: Kastner & Öhler是奧地利的第二大百貨公司，在去年12月的時候開了一個旗下的分公司叫做: Infected。 這樣品牌的組織架構有點像是以前的衣蝶，然後衣蝶S館。只是品牌的區分上切割得更徹底。Infected 是專門針對年輕族群而成立的百貨通路。因此大門走進去，很像進到以前金石堂樓上的牛仔屋一樣，整片都是各家品牌的單寧商品。品牌的range很大。從Diesel到Vero Monda 都有。在開幕之前，他們還有一個行銷影片放在Youtube上面(可以參考以下連結: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eN84wU8SUc)。不得不小小抱怨一下，這封信的時間點是去年11月初，當初的點閱率大概快四千。快五個月之後的點閱率成長不到1000實在偏低。
以下是英文，若是有需要我翻譯的，請在留言版跟我說喔!!
Dear Mr. XXX (保護執行長的隱私嚕!)
Thanks for giving me this chance to express my opinions about Kastner & Öhler and I would like to apologise that it took a few days to organise my thoughts.
This Monday, I went to "Infected", it is a very trendy shop with a clear concept. However, it surprised me that "Infected" is a Sub-brand of Kastner & Öhler. At the very beginning, I thought "Infected" is the opening event for the 20|10|2010 project. My understanding of "Infected" and "Kastner & Öhler" is that you are going to create a brand image as "A distributor for Fashion, Trend and Unique shopping experience."
Before I came to Graz, I have never heard about Kastner & Öhler. Even so, Kastner & Öhler still shows its ambition and I see the great opportunities of it.
1. Timing: 2010 will be another big year for Graz since this city is a candidate for the City of Design. So that from now on until the end of next year, the opinion leaders of Design, Fashion and Art fields and also the international media are paying highly attention in what happening in Graz. It is the most effective and economical way to promote Kastner & Öhler / Infected.
Q: From this Saturday (21/11/09) is Japanese Week 2009. Is there any marketing campaign or promotion event to introduce Infected during this week?
2. Concept Dep. Store is on the wave: That is my own definition of distributors like "Infected". The biggest strength of the "Concept Dep. Store" is to attract their target / potential audiences without regional limits. For example, "Opening Ceremony" is based on the USA, by using a social network marketing strategy to expand their market share and build up a very strong relationship with their consumers. In 2008, they launched their first Asian branch in Tokyo. Furthermore, they keep seeking a platform in other countries to represent their Brand Essence.
Q: The main concept of Infected is a fashion distributor for young people and the people who have a young sprit. Does Infected have a good connection with this target group?
3. Experience, Attitude & Self-identity: Having a nice shopping experience is not a new idea in fashion distribution industry. Beside a nice shopping environment, the next level to be an outstanding fashion distributor is to provide a completed Brand Experience and to inspire the consumers to agree with distributors´ attitude or Brand Essence. "Liberty" is one of the most historical and famous fashion distributor brands in the UK; the unique point of Liberty is to identify itself not only by providing luxury fashion garments, but also by being a pioneer to lead the fashion trend, art and design.
Q: What is the vision of Infected or Kastner & Öhler? A speedy fashion distributor; a fashion collector, or a name represents "Chic"?
"Infected" and the coming new "Kastner & Öhler" have those conditions to show a different face in the future. However, it needs to dig out; it is a pity that the "Infected Spot" on Youtube had less then 4,000 views during one months. It could get more buzz through some marketing tactics.
This is the overview of what I saw from Infected and Kastner & Öhler. In addition, I would like to give more and deeper insights in my ideas. Please feel free to contact me and thank you for your patients.
I am looking forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely
Chic Wednesday
編輯: Chic Wednesday / 小後
圖片著作權:
Liberty
Liberty
Open Ceremony
Harrods
Phila Hsue
Phila Hsue
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